Monday, May 6, 2013

Our Ghanian vacation

Even cows like to hang out on the beach — in Butre, Western.

We make the 30 minute walk across the dry wetland to the canoe

Kinda like Boundary Waters...
 

On the way to the stilt village
 


Our first view up close of the house built on stilts on top of a lake, Nzulezo

This is a house being built
 

Reading helped these people spell, but not guess that the word intelligence was too long for one line
 

Some kids jamming in a canoe
 

I taunt one of the chief's pet turkeys.
.

We enjoy some palm wine atop the roof of a PCV's house overlooking the ocean...nice!
 

We splurge and get fresh lobster thermidor for dinner, caught that morning!
— 

A walk along the beach one direction to the nearby village, next to the Hideout Lodge.
 

We went for a hike to the top of a big hill and found another beautiful beach from the top!
— 

Every day we would walk about a mile each way to this point where, when the waves came in with the tide, the ocean spray reminded us of standing in front of the Flume at Valleyfair!
— 

Our point
— in Butre, Western.

Sarah and her classic embracing nature pose

A view of the Hideout lodge
— 

This was our wonderful beach we enjoyed for 4 days.

and this is the 40 square foot tree house we stayed in.

Home sweet home, for 4 days.
— 

Ahhhhh...at the beach





Sunday, May 5, 2013

Our lost friend

While we were at the Hideout beach resort, we were looking forward to our next couple steps before our Close of Service conference.  So we thought how it’d be fun to see the Elmina Castle, a really cool piece of history here in Ghana.  After staying at a resort, we were looking for people we’d want to see along the way.  Our first thought was our great friend Danielle Dunlap who lived near Cape Coast which would be a single day trip in to see the castle and come back to her place for the night for some fun with her.  We were texting back and forth with her making sure she’d be there and it would work out.  She sent back with her normal pep in life that all was cool and she’d be there waiting for us.  Awesome, we were so excited!  The next day, we got a text from one of her Volunteer neighbours that Dani had become sick and it was serious enough for the two of them to go to Accra for medical attention.  We were very sad, of course because we wanted to stay with her for those couple nights, but also because a close friend of ours was sick.  We thanked the neighbour for letting us know and we decided to just come to Accra the day we were planning to go to her site.  Maybe we’d be able to visit her if she was still sick at the office.
In the tro from Takoradi to Accra, we got news that hit us like a ton of bricks.  Another Volunteer in Accra was on the phone to Sarah and I could tell something was very very bad judging by Sarah’s reaction.  When she had the tiniest composure to tell me, she said that Dani had become very sick the night before and was rushed to the hospital in Accra.  Late that night, Dani passed away.  When I would read books or hear the expression “I felt the blood sink from my head” I’d not known exactly what that was like.  To hear this shocking news, I literally felt all the blood rush away from my face.  It couldn’t be.  No.
Obviously we were already on our way to Accra, and Sarah and I spent most of those few hours on the road in silence.  I couldn’t imagine Peace Corps, or even our personal lives without Dani.  And it was just insult to injury that we, just 36 hours before, we planning to be heading to her site to spend a couple days with her.  We found our way to the Peace Corps office and the word had gone out to nearly all Volunteers, but only a few had shown up so far.  So many hugs, so many tears.  One by one, more Volunteers began to show up.  Each one with another round of questions and strained faces.
The next day, all the Volunteers that had arrived convened to start to talk about getting the ball rolling on a memorial service.  We started thinking about how we could best honor her, remember her, and celebrate her.  About halfway through the meeting, we had a visit from Danni’s mother.  I thought that seeing all of us together, we would see a crushed, broken mother who could barely speak but wanted to make an appearance.  She walked in with the presence of confidence and poise just like her daughter always did.  She had way more control of her emotions than any of us combined and proceeded to thank us for our service and tell us how important we were to the people and development of Ghana as Peace Corps Volunteers.  I speak for the whole room in saying we were all thinking “how can this woman just lost her only daughter, and be giving us strength instead of struggling to breathe?”  But that was the confirmation that this was Danni’s mother because we could see everything about Danni in her.  It was almost eerie.  We went around the room and introduced ourselves and most said a little something about how much Danni meant to each of us, and she thanked each one of us.  Maybe it was because she knew she would have to go through this several more times throughout the next few days in Ghana, and then back home in Atlanta, and breaking down every day would be too exhausting.  She joked with us about Danni, and brought us some immediate peace to a fresh gash in all our hearts.  No one else could have done that for all of us. 
Then we continued to plan the memorial and delegate tasks for the next 48 hours after Danni’s mother left.  I didn’t volunteer to take a big leadership role because everyone wanted to do something for her and I would have gotten in the way.  But every day, we showed up to the Peace Corps office to be present in the hustle and bustle of putting an amazing day together.  Between 200 and 300 yards of personalized fabric was made in her honor of her love of Dr. Pepper in the traditional funeral colors here in Ghana.  The fabric makers shut down their shop to work solely on this project and many people even had the fabric tailored into clothing pieces within 48 hours to be ready to pick up the day of the service. 
My emotions were really up and down throughout those few days.  One day I was completely exhausted from heavy emotions, and the next I was up and energetic thinking about how we had happy memories with Danni.  Usually Sarah and I would break down together in the evenings when we were alone.  At the office, counsellors were brought in to meet with people to talk about how to deal with grief, which helped a lot of people cope.  People to speak, music performances, media to share, and so much more were being put together at warp speed to have a day that Danni deserved.
Friday, we had the service.  It started with us setting up the place to house over 300 people including PCVs, staff, US Embassy personnel, and guests from her village at our Country Director’s residence.  We all met at the PC office and shuttled over to his house for our own personal reflection service before the official service.  We all got to share our favorite memories and get a solid round of tears out before the rest of the guests arrived.  I got up and shared my favourite memory of Danni and how I’ll always remember her sense of humor.  Then after an hour and a half, we started the main service which was full of fabulous memories and wonderful stories.  Not surprising at all, but it was amazing to see how much Danni meant to not only PCVs, but staff, professional workers around Ghana, and of course, her village family. 
Poems were read, songs were sang, and a narrative was given by many Volunteers telling anecdotes about her throughout her Peace Corps service.  Toward the end, a full girls dance that she choreographed was done in her honor and Sarah was part of that, so she shook her booty in Danni’s memory.  We closed with a special prayer and a toast of Dr. Pepper, her favourite drink, to Danni.  Of course, so many tears were shed, and so many sad faces.  But at the same time, at the close of the whole day, I think everyone felt that the day did Danni justice and she would have been proud.   I felt more at peace seeing how Danni had changed the world for the better and how many lives were made more special because they knew her.  We lost a huge part of our Peace Corps family that day, but we were lucky enough to have her be part of our family at all.  Danni, there truly aren’t words to describe how much you’ll be missed.  But God had a reason to bring you home early, so we just trust that His plan is the best.  We’ll all see you again, in all your vibrance and glamour.  Rest in peace.  

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Vacation time!

Jordan here:  So Sarah looked at our last 4 months of our service and still had some vacation days to use up and knew there were some places we still wanted to see.  Our All Volunteer conference took place in the Eastern Region in early April and we had our Close of Service conference in early May, and since it takes 2 full days, one way, to get back to our site, and we had some work to do in Accra, that this would be the best time to use up the days in between. 
Our All Vol was really fun.  Lots of time to see people that are out in the boonies like us, just on the other side of the country.  Although some of the sessions really are work, because they’re tough to get through, we got the evenings to hang out.  I was lucky enough to play a couple poker tournaments, Sarah was in the talent show, and as much ultimate Frisbee as we could get!  By now, we’re the elder group and of course the topic is how our service is closing and what was next.  Some people had grad school, med school, jobs, or like us, quite unknown.  The end was bittersweet, because truly some of those people we wouldn’t see again.  Then we parted ways and Sarah and I headed to Accra.
We had some grants to close and to do our taxes and plan the next couple weeks off.  Then we took off for our friend Kevin’s site in the Western Region.  After arriving we got to see him in his village and school.  It was really refreshing to see another Volunteer who loves his place and the people and really has become integrated.  He knew most people and had a great time with his students and fellow teachers.  That was really great to see.  The next day we took a trip out to a touristy site not far from his site.  Its an entire, albeit small, village built on stilts on top of a lake.  We noticed how important your guide is to your experience.  A couple people had a really great time because the guide gave lots of information, was excited, etc.  However, ours was a 14-year-old kid who wasn’t much of a conversationalist.  We were greeted by a man peeing into the water that all the children were swimming in.  Apparently they had had a big party the few days before and people were having a great time.  However, we caught the after-party and people weren’t all that energetic or welcoming.  So everything is situational, and that goes for life in general.
We stopped by a restaurant run by a Spanish man and the food was fabulous!  On the way to our next place we saw another Volunteer’s site and enjoyed a little palm wine on the roof of her place overlooking the Atlantic beach.  Pretty nice!  Then on to the Hideout beach resort for some slow down relaxing time in a tree house.  We thought it’d just be the two of us, but each day we encountered different Volunteers who apparently had the same thoughts as us.  It was all very fun, though.  The beach was beautiful!  Every day we would take our beach walk, about a mile to a big rock point where the waves in the afternoon would pick up and spray us with ocean mist.  We both got a lot of reading done and a lot of planning for our trip after we close our service (Sarah has the Morocco book nearly memorized already!).  We are very excited to hear we, if God bless, will see our parents and some other good friends along the way!  We stayed in a tree house with about 40 square feet of space including the bed, more than plenty for the two of us.  We swam in the ocean about 4 times a day and played in the salt water waves, trying each time to ride them into the shore.  Each night we dined well on burgers and a beer, or some fresh fish.  Even one night we splurged and got the Lobster Thermidor which was fantastic!  Fresh lobster for a relatively great price.  We said good bye to the Hideout quite happy with our stay.
We then moved on to another beach, arguably even more beautiful in a town called Busua.  On World Malaria Day, we “helped” with a surf competition put on by Peace Corps Volunteers and a surf shop that was raising awareness about how to combat malaria.  My contribution was being a judge of the surfing for some of the competitors.  Whoever put me in a judging position for a surf competition obviously didn’t know I was a Midwest boy that had seen the ocean only a handful of times and knew nothing about surfing.  It turned out it was relatively low-key and I did alright, I guess.  But aside from that, we hung out on the beach and swam more and threw around the Frisbee.  We even got to eat our first chocolate banana pancakes since our old apartment in Falcon Heights!  Delicious. 
Feeling we had gotten a respectable amount of sand and surf and beach, we moved on the next morning to head back along the coast toward Accra.  However, plans changed when we got a call in the tro in Takoradi...